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Kill The Gnats!
A fungus gnat is so small it’s thinner than the width of a quarter. They commonly appear when cannabis plants are watered too often. If you let the top inch of your soil dry out before watering your plants each time, fungus gnats often naturally go away on their own. However, if you have a really bad infestation, it can take weeks of good watering practices before you get rid of all of them unless you also do something to directly kill the bugs and bring down their numbers. Read on to learn how to get rid of fungus gnats on your cannabis plants for good!
Fungus gnat larvae eat fungus or decaying matter and need wet conditions to thrive. It is common for soil growers to overwater their cannabis plants, and wet soil is the perfect home for fungus and decaying organic matter. After fungus has grown (often invisible to the naked eye) or overwatered matter has begun to decay in the topsoil, fungus gnat lays their eggs in the top layer of wet soil.
Warm + wet topsoil = fungus gnats
These eggs hatch into larvae that look like tiny maggots which only live in the top 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of soil. The fungus gnat larvae are the culprits which cause damage to cannabis roots.
Make sure you have fungus gnats
Get Rid Of Fungus Gnats Quickly!
- Yellow stickey traps\Cards
- fungus gnats love the color yellow and will fly towards it. These yellow sticky cards are covered with a glue that will trap adult fungus gnats, bringing down their numbers.
- More Airflow!
- This helps dry out the top layer of your soil, and also helps prevent the fungus gnats from being able to fly around and lay more eggs.
- Viniger Trap
- Mix water. Viniger and dish soap. The adults are attracted to the smell of viniger.
- Don’t Overwater!
- Fungus gnat larvae need a warm, wet environment near the surface of your soil to grow.
- Kill Larvae in the Soil!
- Add 1″-2″ of Green Sand
- Try neem oil on the top layer of the soil
- try Diatomaceous earth on top instead of green sand
- BT Bacteria – Another thing you can water your plants with is something that contains “BT” bacteria (specifically, Bacillus thuringiensis var israelensis – Mosquito Bit)
- Hydrogen Peroxide – Use 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 4 parts water (for 3% pure H2O2)
- avoid overwatering your cannabis plants from now on
- Keep your sticky yellow cards up until Fungus Gnats are completely gone
- pathogenic nematodes (Steinernema feltiae)
- predatory mites (Hypoaspis miles)
- predatory rove beetle (Atheta coriaria)
The “brute force” methods above (SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide) will kill the fungus gnat larvae, but will also kill many beneficial microbes in the soil. You can add beneficial microbes back, but it will take a while for them to repopulate your soil. This problem only really affects organic soil growers. If you’re providing nutrients to your plants with bottled nutrients, you’re already providing nutrients in a way that your plants will be able to use even if the microbe populations are down. In any case, if growing organically, an organic version of bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies israelensis) is the best option for getting rid of fungus gnats.
Why kill fungus gnats?
Fungus gnats can inflict extensive damage to seedlings in houseplants,
Gnat’s Larvae helping in the decomposition of organic matter:
The larvae feed on plant roots that have sat in drain water too long and are thus rotting and may be attracted to fungus growing in saturated topsoil,
Some fungus gnats are exceptionally hardy, being able to tolerate cold conditions through their possession of antifreeze proteins.
Fungus gnat crash course.
This is a Good Video on gnats.
- No peat moss soil.
- Perlite on top of soil/top layer
- Water correctly, let dry out completely
- A few Mosquito bits on top layer
- Sand/Greensand on top layer of soil
- Hydroton on top layer of soil
Here are a few products we carry in store to help you with the fungus gnat problems that may occure.
Dyna-gro Pure Neem Oil
RTU ( Ready to use ) Neem Oil
Yellow Sticky Trap
Mosquito Bits ( BT )
Greensand ( top fill )
T-Drops ( amazing )
Here is a video on how to use Nematodes.
cheap\free DIY grown gnat trap video. This does not take care of the larva in the soil, this can but a hurt on them but will not fully erraticate them.
How to use Mosquito Bites to kill larva.
Spider mites (Tetranychidae) are common pests of many outdoor crops including berries, ornamentals, vines, many fruit trees, hemp and cannabis. There are many subspecies of spider mites in the Tetranychus genus including the Pacific Spider Mite, Two-Spotted Spider Mite and Strawberry Spider Mite. Some species are more easily identified than others; however, it is generally unnecessary to do so as their biology, damage, and control measures are similar or the same.
Identification & Life Cycle: Spider mite populations can grow rapidly under the right conditions (warm with little wind is their favorite) and can be identified by the telltale webbing they produce on plant leaves. Unfortunately, by the time you see webbing, it may be difficult to control the population. Spider mites undergo five life stages – egg, larva, two nymph stages and the adult stage.
- Eggs – Overwinter under bark, in fallen leaf matter, and other areas that provide shelter. During the growing season they can be found on the undersides of leaves. They usually hatch within three days.
- Larva – Begin hatching after the last frost has passed and have six legs. Little feeding is done by this stage.
- Nymph – Looks similar to the adult, but slightly smaller and unable to reproduce. There are two nymph stages: proto-nymph and deuto-nymph.
- Adult – About 0.4 mm long with eight legs, adult spider mites can be pale yellow to green or orange to brown. Females lay between 50-100 eggs throughout their lives with unfertilized eggs hatching as males and fertilized eggs hatching as females.
The duration of a spider mite’s life cycle varies greatly depending on environmental conditions with temperature being the chief contributor to that variability. Due to that, they are most active outdoors during the summer months. A generation can be completed in under a week if conditions are favorable.
Knockdown & Chemical Control – Existing spider mite populations should be treated with organic knockdown sprays if allowed. Naturally derived miticidal sprays like neem oil,pyrethrins, azadirachtin & horticulture oilcan be sprayed directly onto adult mites, larvae, nymphs and eggs to kill on contact. Apply to active spider mite infestations at 3-day intervals until control is achieved. Horticultural oils can also be applied to overwintering sites to reduce egg populations. Exercise caution when applying oil-based sprays to plant in high temperatures (>80°) or intense lighting. Miticides should be used as a last resort in the flowering period of growth. Utilize biological control methods instead (see below).
Biological Control – Ideal for spider mite control during flowering. Introduce beneficial insects after knocking down spider mites for continued control. Match your growing conditions with themite predators optimal conditions and time releases in conjunction with other integrated pest management approaches.
Below are Preventative and Control Products we carry in store.
Ladybugs are general predators that eat many slow-moving and soft bodied insects. Including; Aphids, Moth eggs, Mites, Scales, Thrips, Leaf Hoppers, Mealybugs, Chinch Bugs, Asparagus Beetle larvae, Whitefly and other soft and slow-moving insects. Ladybugs are a must-have for organic gardening or organic farming. Ladybug eat insects during both the adult and larval stages, so you can buy ladybugs as adults and continue to have live ladybugs eating through other parts of their life cycle as they reproduce.
The Amazing Doctor Zymes Eliminator is a revolutionary green solution that kills and eliminates soft bodied insects, molds and mildews on your indoor or outdoor gardens. Eliminator is a proprietary formula, hand crafted to ensure quality control. Professional Growers use it all year to ensure pest free, mildew free plants. The Amazing Doctor Zymes Eliminator can be used preventively or to eliminate active infestations.
86 Mites & Mold is a natural oil based broad spectrum pesticide which eliminates a wide range of insects including spider mites, aphids thrips, broad mites, russet mites, whiteflies, grubs, many kinds of ants, etc. Spider mites die on contact. Eggs are suffocated within 12-24 hours. Apply as a treatment or as a preventive every 2-3 days or as required.
FoxFarm Bush Doctor Force of Nature Miticide is specially formulated for the control of mites, thrips and other insects on different types of crops. It is effective in controlling most spider mites and insects pests on contact for 3 to 4 weeks with 1% spray solution. It is a great addition to a well-defined Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program to ensure efficient prevention and control. It is made of natural ingredients so it is guaranteed safe to use around human and animals.
There is no other product like it! It is a true breakthrough in the science of zero residue multi-purpose pesticides. Kills broad mites, spider mites, thrips, white fly, powdery mildew and more. Apply on the day of harvest to buds and blooms. Reduces mold and mildew in the drying process. Will not slow plant growth like other products. Meets state requirements for zero pesticide residues. It’s unique OMRI listed formula is comprised of 100% food grade ingredients.
Spray Green Cleaner on plants of every age, from clones through harvest. Unlike other products, spider mites do not get immune to Green Cleaner. Kills mites and their eggs. Washes powdery mildew right off the plant. All natural, you can even use Green Cleaner on the day of harvest. Green Cleaner is a concentrate that makes 2 oz 1 – 4 gallons, 4 oz 2 – 8 gallons, 8 oz 4 – 16 gallons, 32 oz 16 – 64 gallons and 128 oz 64 – 256 gallons.
AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control. It contains Azadirachtin A & B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids. AzaMax does not use hard chemical solvents and fully uses food grade formulation ingredients. It is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator which controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. Effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests.
Safe, non-toxic pest and fungal control for healthier plants through the power of colloidal micelles. Use Trifecta Crop Control for treating and preventing problem mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, as well as botrytis, fusarium and downy and powdery mildew. Healthy medicine for healthy living. Make sure your plants test clean. Crop control is made from all food safe ingredients. Foliar spray shows no residual within 48 hours of application. This product may be used on crops intended for human consumption.
The standard by which all other Plant Washes are compared. Mighty Wash cleans plants leaving them vibrant and healthy the way they were meant to be in nature. Clean, healthy plants thrive indoors just as they have for the millions of years they evolved outdoors, where they utilized all the elements of nature including the frequencies of light, color and sounds. Wash your plants with Mighty Wash by giving them a thorough saturating spray to both the top and bottom of the leaves. Mighty Wash can be used throughout your plants entire growing and flowering cycle, up to and including the day of harvest.
Doktor Doom Total Release Foggers are for use in greenhouses, fruit and vegetable storage areas and indoor gardening areas. Used for controlling fungus gnats, spider mites, two-spotted spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, scale, mealy bugs and thrips. No residuals. The active ingredient, pyrethrin, is derived from chrysanthemums and proven to successfully control spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and more.
This is a good video that Explains NPK
Click Here For a great Blog article from Botanicare
Good Basic Tips from Cocoforcannabis.com
The Order to Mix Nutrients
- Add Silica and give solution at least one hour to dissolve
- Add Cal-Mag
- Add Base Nutrients
- First “Micro”
- Second “Grow”
- Third “Bloom”
- Add Bloom Booster
- Add Humic Acid
- Add SM-90 (I now use Yucca as a wetting agent instead.
- Measure and adjust the pH of the solution
- Add Rapid Start
- Add H2O2 (if needed for reservoir)
Basic Mixing Conversion